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Another question:

Regarding units / betting amounts.

What is the best rule of thumb for bank roll management in terms of deciding how much 1 unit is ?


And PS for the record - I meant to say 'baseball is not big in New Zealand' in my first post. But I assume you understood that from your reply :)
For example I started my 5 dimes account with $500. But firstly I dont feel comfortable with 1 Unit being $100 (plus start on an off day and you'll blow your bank roll the first day!!)

Please let me know your thoughts / strategies behind this.
 

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Another question:

Regarding units / betting amounts.

What is the best rule of thumb for bank roll management in terms of deciding how much 1 unit is ?


And PS for the record - I meant to say 'baseball is not big in New Zealand' in my first post. But I assume you understood that from your reply :)
For example I started my 5 dimes account with $500. But firstly I dont feel comfortable with 1 Unit being $100 (plus start on an off day and you'll blow your bank roll the first day!!)

Please let me know your thoughts / strategies behind this.

A rule of thumb is that each unit is 1% of your bankroll. So if you play a game for 1 unit with a $500 bankroll, your wager would be $5. However, with a $500 bankroll, I would recommend 2 units or 2% of your bankroll per play. This allows you enough cushion to protect your bankroll from going bust. Should your bankroll increase, then your 2 unit or 2% play will increase as well. If your bankroll decrease, then your 2 unit or 2% play will decrease. You should adjust the amount daily as your bankroll adjusts. Start each day fresh. I know it seems small, but it is the proper way to manage your bankroll and keep you in play.
 

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So for example Fat Harry's bet today

I realise his bank roll is 1000 times bigger than mine but the maths etc is the same in a smakler scale. some of the bets he is playin would bust me if they lost.

Ie Angels +2.5 - risk $3750. Win $500

Should I only be risking the $10 (2%) to win $1.3 ?

Or bet more to win 2% ($10)?
 

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And also would you say the 1% (ie $5 or $10 @ 2%) is the set?

Or increase it when you reach a certain benchmark/micro goal (ie $750/$1000) you increase it ?
 

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So for example Fat Harry's bet today

I realise his bank roll is 1000 times bigger than mine but the maths etc is the same in a smakler scale. some of the bets he is playin would bust me if they lost.

Ie Angels +2.5 - risk $3750. Win $500

Should I only be risking the $10 (2%) to win $1.3 ?

Or bet more to win 2% ($10)?

The 2% of the bankroll is risking $10. As for Fat Harry's style of play, I would definitely not recommend it at all. The Tracker Forum was created with the concept of 1 unit equals $100 and the poster can choose to make each play from a minimum of 1 unit to a maximum of 5 units. The Tracker Forum standings do not mean that the poster is actually risking real money at that level. They are more competing for bragging rights. I can assure you that Fat Harry is not wagering $3750 to win $500 in real money. It is just monopoly money without a real bankroll.

Keep in mind that sports betting is not something in which you get rich overnight. It is not a sprint but rather a marathon with the goal being to provide income over the many, many years one gambles.
 

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And also would you say the 1% (ie $5 or $10 @ 2%) is the set?

Or increase it when you reach a certain benchmark/micro goal (ie $750/$1000) you increase it ?

You should remain at either 1% or 2% for some time until you are comfortable with your ability to produce either positive or negative results. The increase in dollar amount wagered will automatically happen if you are show winning results. Likewise the decrease in dollar amount wagered will automatically happen if you show losing results. The 1% or 2% of an increasing or decreasing bankroll will take care of itself. Those percentages of the bankroll should only be raised after you have become a very experienced sports bettor.
 

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How do you sign up for Ace-Ace's picks ?

Ps: thanks for all the help you've given a sports betting noobie!! Thought I wasnt that bad, but have SOO much to learn!

BR
 

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Another question : What is a leans ?

IE: (from Donk)
Lean: Lions +3.5, NE/DET Over 44.5
 

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Another question : What is a leans ?

IE: (from Donk)
Lean: Lions +3.5, NE/DET Over 44.5

In general, when a handicapper says he has a "lean" on a particular play, he means he likes the play but perhaps not quite enough to wager on it.
 

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Another thing! I guess I could find the answer from Google, but OMT seems better than google :) - The Points start (or spread as you call them in the usa) -

Ill simply use the example below: NE/DET Over 44.5

On the website ive been using if it says Over 45. Does that mean if its exactly 45 you lose ?


I know in one of the MBL games this week I saw "Totals: U7, U7.5, U8" - So whats the difference between U7.5 and U8 ?

7.5 means 8 and below and 8 means under 9 ? (not including 8)?

But if that is the case then whats the point in U7 and U7.5 - Some kind of draw if its 7 ?

Hope what im saying makes sense
 

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Another thing! I guess I could find the answer from Google, but OMT seems better than google :) - The Points start (or spread as you call them in the usa) -

Ill simply use the example below: NE/DET Over 44.5

On the website ive been using if it says Over 45. Does that mean if its exactly 45 you lose ?


I know in one of the MBL games this week I saw "Totals: U7, U7.5, U8" - So whats the difference between U7.5 and U8 ?

7.5 means 8 and below and 8 means under 9 ? (not including 8)?

But if that is the case then whats the point in U7 and U7.5 - Some kind of draw if its 7 ?

Hope what im saying makes sense

Regarding the first example, I assume you are seeing the line at NE/DET O/U 44.5 but at the book you are using the line is NE/DET O/U 45. The O/U means Over/Under. If you wager on either Over or Under 45, the game is a push (no action) because it ties the number (i.e. 45).

Regarding your second example, the difference between Total Runs of 7.5 and 8 is if you play the Over 7.5 and the total ends up 8 runs, you win. If the total ends up 7 runs, you lose. Now, if you play Over 8 runs and the total ends up exactly 8 runs, you push (no action). If the total ends up 9, you win. If the total ends up 7, you lose.
 

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Hey - Looking for a excel sheet for converting US odds to decimal - Do you have one of these ?

Cheers
 

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OMT-

I have been mostly a browser in my short membership of this site. I enjoy the willingness to share information from everyone and look forward to having a fruitful CFB season this fall. I was intrigued by a recent therx newsletter pushing a new sponsor SYNBet.com. After reading up on the site about their ins and outs, I have a question. How common is it for sites, such as SYNBet.com, to "charge" a commission on withdrawals?
 

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OMT-

I have been mostly a browser in my short membership of this site. I enjoy the willingness to share information from everyone and look forward to having a fruitful CFB season this fall. I was intrigued by a recent therx newsletter pushing a new sponsor SYNBet.com. After reading up on the site about their ins and outs, I have a question. How common is it for sites, such as SYNBet.com, to "charge" a commission on withdrawals?

All books charge a fee for withdrawls with the amount depending on the type of withdrawl requested. Some, however, offer 1 free withdrawl every 30 days or some other time frame.

I believe, however, you are referring to the "Betting Exchange" portion of the wagaring. Generally speaking, all exchange wagering includes commission rather then the standard "juice" of 10% charged by non-exchange books. Synbet.com is charging 2.5%, therefore if you wager using the exchange, you save on all your wagers made compared to those books that charge "juice".
 

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Figuring how much a line is off

OMT, This was posted in another forum, can you help me? Thanks!


Can someone please explain to me how to figure how much a line is off?

Example

Ari. -3 vs. Den
Final score Ari 26-Den 7

I understand that the line would be off by +16 Ari. and -16 Den

other Examples:

Ari -4 vs. Den
Final Score Ari 13-Den 10
Line off? (+ or - 1 for Ari.? I understand that it would be opposite for Den.)

Ari +3 vs. Den
Final score Ari 10-Den 28
Line off? (15 or 21? and + or - for who?)

Ari -4 vs Den
Final Score Ari 17-Den 10
Line off? (Again, I would say the line is off 3 points, but who gets the + and who the -?)

I have asked this question in another thread, but am not seeming to get any answers, so I thought I would try here. Thanks for any help and explanation you could provide. BOL!​

 

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OMT, This was posted in another forum, can you help me? Thanks!


Can someone please explain to me how to figure how much a line is off?

Example

Ari. -3 vs. Den
Final score Ari 26-Den 7

I understand that the line would be off by +16 Ari. and -16 Den

other Examples:

Ari -4 vs. Den
Final Score Ari 13-Den 10
Line off? (+ or - 1 for Ari.? I understand that it would be opposite for Den.)

Ari +3 vs. Den
Final score Ari 10-Den 28
Line off? (15 or 21? and + or - for who?)

Ari -4 vs Den
Final Score Ari 17-Den 10
Line off? (Again, I would say the line is off 3 points, but who gets the + and who the -?)

I have asked this question in another thread, but am not seeming to get any answers, so I thought I would try here. Thanks for any help and explanation you could provide. BOL!



First, let me explain that how much a line is off has absolutely nothing to do with what the final score ended up being. Whether a line is on or off is determined from the time it opens until the time it closes. Think of it like the stock market with buying on both sides and ultimately settling when the game begins.

How to determine if a line is right on or definitely off takes experience. It is not just a simple mathematic calculation. Many factors go into the creating the opening line and many factors go into determining if the line is on or off. Such factors include team strength, strength of schedule, home field advantage, key injuries, weather conditions, etc. Give yourself time, you will begin to get a grasp on whether a line is on or off.
 
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