Yeah Journey, my idea is certainly not original, when I watched endless summer II , I made my list of places I had to surf before I died! San Diego, or just north in Oceanside is my favorite of all the places so far at the N. jetti! It faces south so it picks up all the swells! Had some 7-8 ft this time out there and it was a blast!
The biggest injuries were a result of the board hitting me when I first started, scars on my forhead and wrists, thigh but nothing big. Jellyfish stings(2), reef scrapes, and one very large sea animal pushing me from a to b with little effort and that was nerve racking, it was the only time I rode the next wave in and rushed out of the water! I still don't know what it was that pushed me, my guess is that it was a shark! I few fights with some territorial locals but those are added fun of surfing, surfers are not tough for the most part and I don't like bullies.
Journey the coolest thing that has happened surfing is that I have actually surfed the same waves with dolphins right next to me on the same wave, I mean I could have touched the dolphin, it was like being in "heaven", I have never been so high! Thats the beauty of surfing when you get out after surfing 3-4 hrs. its the biggest high I have ever felt. I really do feel at Peace with the world and everything in it. If everyone surfed the crime rate would probably dwindle to almost nothing!
I`m sure he did head the other way..if that picture is real...You gotta remember that was a split second that wave opened and he saw thru it...
I saw a giant stingray shaped fish , just like this,lol...I was even thinking it earlier when me and Eric were talking...
I was just body surfing one day , and the wave rolled in and as the top got lighter ( just like this picture) I saw a "batlike" shaped fish in it...It didn`t take me but a split second to do a 180 out of the water,lol....I`m not sure if it was a stingray or a large "Skate" but I wasn`t about to stick around....Just like that picture, but the fish wasn`t nearly as big as that supposed shark is there lol, WOW!
I saw a giant stingray shaped fish , just like this,lol...I was even thinking it earlier when me and Eric were talking...
I was just body surfing one day , and the wave rolled in and as the top got lighter ( just like this picture) I saw a "batlike" shaped fish in it...It didn`t take me but a split second to do a 180 out of the water,lol....I`m not sure if it was a stingray or a large "Skate" but I wasn`t about to stick around....Just like that picture, but the fish wasn`t nearly as big as that supposed shark is there lol, WOW!
You all are killing me, I am heading out to surf this morning, thanks for the eh!
I surf a lot at our pier here and many people fish off of it, attracks the food for the sharks, this morning I will feel more like bait than I ever have!
I have to tell you all that everytime you go into the ocean you are surrounded by millions of sea creatures, you just don't realize it because you can't see them! I have had seals come up within a couple of feet of me with their breakfast, lunch or dinner hanging from their mouths. Sorta looking at me like, "look buddy can you get dinner"!
I just live to be in the water but I always respect the fact that I am just borrowing time in their space. I never disrespect their space and I yield to them and love their presence!
But at 5:30 am this morning I will be thinking of that picture eh! But after I catch the 1st ride I will be in my zone and thats as close to "heaven" as I have found.
I surf a lot at our pier here and many people fish off of it, attracks the food for the sharks, this morning I will feel more like bait than I ever have!
I have to tell you all that everytime you go into the ocean you are surrounded by millions of sea creatures, you just don't realize it because you can't see them! I have had seals come up within a couple of feet of me with their breakfast, lunch or dinner hanging from their mouths. Sorta looking at me like, "look buddy can you get dinner"!
I just live to be in the water but I always respect the fact that I am just borrowing time in their space. I never disrespect their space and I yield to them and love their presence!
But at 5:30 am this morning I will be thinking of that picture eh! But after I catch the 1st ride I will be in my zone and thats as close to "heaven" as I have found.
